Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
